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I love mirrors. But not in a "vain and want to stare at myself way," more a "mirrors make rooms bright and pretty" way. So when I had blank wall space in my bedroom, I knew a mirror was the perfect thing to add. And when I saw these Anthropologie jewelry organizers, an idea was born.
For whatever reason, I feel the Anthropologie jewelry organizers are dying for a mirror in between them. I'm also somewhat outraged that they're tiny 12" long things sold as two separate pieces, but since I decided to make my own, I suppose I'll get over it.
Note: I'm putting this section first, even though it's the last thing done because I want to make sure you understand how this works before starting the project.
The DIY Mirrored Jewelry Organizer actually gets mounted in two separate pieces: the bottom shelf will be secured first. Then the mirror will be slid into place, and the second piece (the top piece) will be secured on top of it.
There will be a groove in each wood piece for the mirror to rest on. I accomplished this by adding a 1/4" scrap plywood piece to the back of each main wood piece. However, if you have a table saw, you could saw a groove in the back of the wood as well. The plywood option was easier for me, but either method works.
Finally, the top piece is secured over the mirror. Note that no screws go through the mirror, they're all placed either above or below the mirror.
DIY Mirrored Jewelry Organizer
- Brass Cup Hooks
- 2" Thick Wood Pieces - 2x4s and 2x6s could work for this, although I cut scrap pieces I had.
- 24" x 30" Mirror - The linked mirror comes with plastic mirror clips for hanging. I used these for extra security, but they were probably unnecessary.
- 1/4" Dowel Rod
- Gold Spray Paint
- 2 Screw Eyes - Make sure these are large enough to fit the 1/4" dowel rod through.
- Pocket Hole Jig and 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
- 1/4" Plywood Scraps
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Optional: Wood Stain and Finish
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Part 1: The Bottom Shelf
Step 1: Cut and Prep Wood Pieces
All my pieces were cut down from an old 2" x 10" that I think was once a part of a bedframe. This method requires a table saw, but if you don't have a table saw, using 2x4s and 2x6s instead would have a very similar look.
The two pieces making up the bottom portion of the mirror were cut to be 30" long, and 3.5" and 5.5" inches wide.
The wider piece ultimately makes up the shelf, while the smaller piece will go underneath the shelf and attach to the wall.
The piece at the top of the mirror is also 30" long, and is cut to be 4.75" inches wide.
At this point, I did a ton of sanding, since this was "reclaimed" (aka, I purchased it used from the Habitat Restore) wood. Go check out my system for cleaning up wood if yours needs a little work as well.
Step 2: Spray Paint Dowel Rod and Screw Eyes
Cut the dowel rod to be 30" long, then spray paint the rod and the screw eyes gold. I purposefully ordered brass cup hooks, but if your cup hooks are another color, spray paint those as well.
You'll need to flip everything over and get the backs at some point, which I did while working on the rest of the project.
Step 3: Attach Bottom Pieces Together
Add four evenly spaced pocket holes to the back of the 3.5" wide piece. Then connect the 3.5" piece to the bottom of the 5.5" piece using 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.
If you have a clear opinion on which sides of your wood face up/out, make sure you're thinking about that here.
Step 4: Stain the Bottom Piece
I did a ton of testing with different stains before I started to make sure I got a color that I liked. I always recommend this, since stain looks different on each piece of wood. I did the tests on the back of my shelf.
Note: You might notice there are mirror clips in the above photo. These weren't necessary, and actually made things more difficult when I hung the project, so ignore them.
Once I'd decided on a stain, I applied wood conditioner and stained the piece.
Step 5: Add "Groove"
If you're using a table saw to add a groove to your piece (as discussed in the "Mounting Logistics" section,) do that now. Instead of that option, I decided to add a 1/4" piece of plywood to the back of my piece. This has the same effect as the groove, bumping out the shelf so that the mirror has a spot to rest.
I secured the plywood piece to my shelf using wood glue and brad nails. When the shelf is ultimately hung on the wall, the mounting screws will go through the plywood, providing a sturdy connection.
Step 6: Add Mounting Holes
I've seen some organizers at Target that mount to the wall with obvious screws that have been countersunk into the wood so that they look nice. I've decided if this look is good enough for Target, it's good enough for me. Thus, I added three countersink holes to the front of my shelf to ultimately mount the piece to the wall.
IMPORTANT: I have plaster walls. Therefore, I didn't have to worry about getting into a stud - as long as I hit lath (horizontal pieces of wood behind the plaster) when securing my shelf, I'd be fine. However, if your walls are made of drywall, you'll need to make sure your screws get into studs. Find your studs on the wall using a stud finder before drilling the countersink holes, then make sure your countersink holes are spaced appropriately. You'll probably only want two screws/holes instead of the three I used.
Step 7: Add Accessories
I spaced the cup hooks two inches apart on the bottom of the mounting piece, marking the places with a pencil and drilling pilot holes in each spot before adding the cup hooks.
I mounted the screw eyes on the bottom side of the shelf piece a couple inches from each end, then slid the dowel rod through the screw eyes.
Part 2: The Top Piece
Step 1: Cut, Sand and Stain
My top piece actually measures 4.75" wide, which is not a size you can purchase at Home Depot. That's okay. 2x6 pieces measures 5.5" wide, which I think will look good too.
I sanded my piece considerably the same way I did with the bottom shelf, then stained it.
Step 2: Add "Groove" Piece
Just as I did in Part 1, I added a 1/4" piece to the back of wood to create a "groove" for the mirror to rest in. This piece was smaller than my Part 1 piece, because I wanted more overlap between the mirror and the wood. This was purely for aesthetics.
Once again, this piece was secured with wood glue and brad nails.
Step 3: Add Countersink Holes
I added a countersink hole on either end of the piece, making sure my hole was placed such that it went through the 1/4" plywood. If your walls are drywall, make sure you've taken the location of your studs into account before drilling these holes.
I didn't have any accessory parts on my top piece (although you could totally add some if you wanted!) so once my countersink holes were in place, I was ready to mount!
I love how it turned out! The shelf is the perfect place for my makeup and brushes, and the hooks and dowel rood are perfect for corralling all of my jewelry!
My dad also thinks it'll help me sell the house, which is cool too.
Regardless, it's super handy to have around, and wasn't that hard to make! If you think you might make a DIY Mirrored Jewelry Organizer too, be sure to save this post to Pinterest so you can find it again later! And if you love organizers, check out my other organizer builds here!